Wall Pieces

copper with patina, gold leaf, enamel paint, turquoise, silk

I want to share some new work that I have done recently. I decided to take the techniques I use in my jewelry and apply them to sculptures that hang on the wall. The result is almost like three-dimensional paintings. Here is one piece from the series. It is on view at Perlow-Stevens Gallery in Columbia, MO.

The size is 8"x 10"
This pendant is direct inspiration for the wall piece. In this case, the pendant is made of blackened silver and 18K gold, and also can be worn as a pin. This pendant/pin is also on view at the Perlow-Stevens Gallery in Columbia, MO.

Another current project is allowing me to combine my tow passions of jewelry/ metalsmithing, and dance. I am going to be performing at the Brooklyn Academy of Music on Nov. 27th and I am making myself a collar for my costume that is based on piece from Bali, dating from the 19th century. I combined the designs of a dancer necklace with the design of a necklace worn by the royal family of Klungkung in the same era. It is made of the same materials as the original dance necklace, copper with gold leaf and gems. The modern collars are made or gold-painted leather, but I figures that since I have th skills, I might as well go for the real thing.

The inspiration comes from photos from this book:

The District

photo Jennifer 8. Lee New York Times

I have been hearing news lately about the Garment District in Manhattan. In the jewelry field, when we say "going to the district", we mean the area around 47th St. between 5th and 6th Aves. However, when my friends in the clothing business talk about their district, they are headed 10 blocks south and a few blocks west.

It seems that the Garment District is being eyed as the next underdeveloped part of Manhattan. Designers and workers are fighting to keep the district zoned for the garment industry. I agree that it is worth fighting for a district in the center of Manhattan dedicated to the making of things, in this case clothing and accessories. When I read Nanette Lepore's comments about how having all the businesses on the same block makes for an efficient business operation, I couldn't agree more.

I think that the jewelry industry has been so far spared, because we deal with high priced materials and the diamond dealers really don't worry too much about being priced out of the neighborhood. But what is lost, when the middle-priced jewelry is removed from the equation, shipped to faraway lands? I think that the spark that can happen between designer, supplier and maker is lost. When one can go have a few face to face conversations on the same block, the faintest outline of an idea can turn into achievable reality in a short time.

As a studio jeweler, making my own work, and sourcing my own materials, I can still enjoy that spark. I just imagine how much more inventive and interesting the mainstream jewelry design would be if it didn't involve so much FedEx and many international phone calls. And what about quality, when the designer can go and see if the stones being set in to the metal are really the color they should be?

I think the jewelers should get together with the garment makers and put forward the idea of buying less things, really well made and designed, conceived and manufactered in New York.

Different Tempers

Yesterday, I received this invitation card in the mail. That, of course, is my bracelet on the front, right next to the work of master blacksmith Albert Paley!

Here is the text from the back of the card:
"Curated by Suzanne Ramljak

While jewelry and blacksmithing are both grounded in metal, there is a curious gulf between the two fields. Just as George Bernard Shaw quipped that England and America "are two distant cousins separated by the same language", jewelers and blacksmiths can seem like distant cousins. Different Tempers will explore these two realms of metalsmithing to highlight their distinct properties as well as their commonalities.

Curated by Suzanne Ramljak, editor of Metalsmith magazine, the exhibition will showcase the work of fourteen prominent and emerging artists. The works of these selected jewelers and blacksmiths epitomize their respective fields, and are also in critical dialogue with their own traditions and materials. A fully illustrated catalogue will accompany the exhibition."

Artists in the exhibition:
Jewelers
Melanie Bilenker
Lola Brooks
Pat Flynn
Sergey Jivetin
Mary Preston
Sondra Sherman
Natasha Wozniak

Blacksmiths
David Clemons
Maegan Crowley
Lu Heintz
Tom Joyce
Brent Kington
Marc Maiorana
Albert Paley

I am so honored to be part of this exhibition. As can be seen in the list above, it is quite an impressive group of artists in the show. While the show includes a whole continuum of work from the delicacy of Melanie Bilenker's hair portraits to the solidity and mass of Tom Joyce's sculptures, with my work falling in the middle. Wrought iron is the main inspiration, while the material and function fall on the side of jewelry.

This show will travel to the National Ornamental Metal Museum in 2010. In addition to my work being on the postcard, I have heard that it will be on the cover of the exhibition catalog as well!

More Filigree

Student work from my filigree class at the Newark Museum

In July, I taught a class at the Newark Museum, and it was very enjoyable for the students and for me. Filigree is a such a low tech technique for making jewelry, we were able to sit together at a large table and make intricate jewelry, just using a few sets of pliers. In the beginning the students felt that filigree was probably too labor-intensive to use as a production technique, however, after a few days of bending, it became clear that filigree can be used to make repeating elements. It can also be used to make very lightweight gold pieces, which is important in these days of high gold prices.

Obsession/ Passion

One my way home last night, I had a little burst of inspiration after walking into Union Square station and seeing a guy playing an upright piano! A perfect example of taking something that almost everyone thinks is over the edge and doing it anyway. Of course the sound is more beautiful than a car-battery powered keyboard and amp. Of course, it wouldn't have worked if he didn't play well, but since he did, it was a lovely moment on the platform. A few people broke the taboo of talking to strangers in NY to share the joy of this moment, at the end of a very hot and humid day. A perfect arguement for taking an idea to the other side of sanity once and a while. The effort will be surely be rewarded.

Trunk Show

L to R: Natasha Wozniak, Laurie, Sydney Lynch, Liz Hayes at 3rd Ward Jewelry during Gallery Night in Milwaukee

What is a trunk show? Basically, it is a show at a store or gallery which features a broad array of work from one designer. Usually for a short period of time. The name comes from the fact that the designer often comes with a suitcase (aka trunk), full of work. With larger companies, the designer may or may not be present. The gallery can just represent them, or they may send an assistant. In my case, I usually appear in person at the gallery to meet the clients.

Last month, I had a trunk show, along with the designer Sydney Lynch at 3rd Ward Jewelry in Milwaukee. This gallery has recently changed hands, and the new owner, Liz Hayes, is doing a great job at the helm. This gallery is a special place for me. Not only were they one of the first galleries to carry my work, but they also are located in SE Wisconsin, where I was born and grew up.

The trunk show was during the gallery night in the 3rd Ward district in Milwaukee, and I was pleased to see how many people came out to enjoy and support the arts. No, it wasn't for the free wine as galleries are no longer allowed to serve wine!!

Even though my full array of jewelry is no longer at the gallery, I always have a collection of work on display there, so please visit when in the area. There is a lot of exceptional jewelry art on display.

Bali and Filigree

Although I didn't have enough time in Bali to really get connected with the local jewelry makers (and my focus for the trip was the performance arts), I did get to visit some jewelry workshops. I have been using the techniques of filigree and chasing repousse in my work quite a lot in the last couple of years, techniques that can be found in places such as Bali, where the amount of tools and equipment available are minimal. In fact, the woman shown below has just one pair of pliers to work with to create the filigree for the earrings she is working on.
A closeup of the earring. She had a number of finished ones in the drawer below her bench.I recycle gold scraps in my studio as it is more economical to make new wire with the scraps than to send it in to be refined and get fresh wire in its place. However, in Bali, they go through the trouble of making their own silver wire. Almost nobody does that in the US as it is too much trouble with silver. It tends to crack as you are reducing the size of the ingot through rolling. Here is an image of a brick that has been carved to serve as a mold for the molten metal to be poured into.A torch in Bali. I am not clear about which fuel they were using in it, combined with a foot bellows to add air to the mixture.
The point of this post being, there can be some fantastic jewelry made without the benefit of elaborate tools. Here is a tray full of some earrings that one of the jewelers was working on.Here he is at the bench.